One symptom, several causes
Warm air can come from airflow, electrical controls, or a coil - or a drain problem or the refrigerant circuit. Testing matters more than guessing the most familiar part.
Warm air, weak airflow, ice on the lines, or water under the indoor unit all need a real diagnosis, not a guessed part. Tell us whether the outdoor unit runs and what changed before the house stopped cooling.
New Market homes run very different cooling setups. Older houses in the historic core might use window units or ductless equipment, while newer construction often has a conventional split system. We start with the equipment you actually have.
Warm air can come from airflow, electrical controls, or a coil - or a drain problem or the refrigerant circuit. Testing matters more than guessing the most familiar part.
Plaster-and-lath walls, tight attics, and retrofitted cooling can change access and the repair path. A historic address doesn't decide the failure.
Ice and active leaks can damage the system and the house. Shut the cooling off if water's near electrical equipment or the unit keeps tripping.
We start with the thermostat call, power, and airflow, then move to outdoor operation, coil condition, and refrigerant-side readings. Those checks tell a no-start problem apart from a system that runs but can't push heat out of the house.
A frozen coil doesn't prove a refrigerant leak. A dirty filter, a blocked return, or a drain problem can leave the same visible ice.
Older homes weren't built around central ductwork, so later cooling additions can land equipment in tight attics or crawlspaces, or in rooms served by a small ductless system. That access changes how we inspect and repair the system.
If your home uses window units or a mini-split, tell us when you call. We start with the system type you actually have, not just the address.
A single failed capacitor or contactor is usually just a repair. A system that can't hold charge, has a damaged compressor, or keeps failing might mean it's time to talk repair versus replace.
Ask us what failed, what the repair fixes, and what would make replacement the better call before you approve anything.
Restricted airflow, a coil problem, or low refrigerant can all cause that. A healthy system drops the supply air 15 to 20 degrees below the return, and we measure that split before we pick a part.
Low airflow and refrigerant problems come up a lot, but a drain or control issue can cause it too. Turn the system off and let the ice melt before we diagnose it.
Some can. Others use window units or ductless equipment because the original construction left little room for ductwork. Your home's layout and access decide what's practical.
Check thermostat mode, the filter, and the breaker, and see whether the outdoor unit's running. Stop if you see ice, water near electrical equipment, smoke, or an unusual odor.
Call with the system type, the rooms affected, and what changed. We start with what you can see.