Why is my mini-split leaking water inside?
Usually it's a blocked drain, a drain-pan issue, something off with the install, or a frozen coil sending water back into the head. Shut it off and protect the floor until we take a look.
A ductless head that drips, stops responding, or blows the wrong temperature can make one room miserable while the rest of the house is fine.
Tell us which head's acting up, what the display or lights show, what mode it's in, and whether the outdoor unit's running. We work zone by zone - especially in the additions and outbuildings where ductless systems often end up around here.
Check the remote's mode and setpoint, check the indoor filter, and see if the breaker's tripped. If a light's blinking or showing a code, write down the pattern. It helps us narrow things down.
If water's dripping from the head, protect the floor and shut the unit off. A drain problem or a frozen coil needs a look before you run it again.
A mini-split can fail at the head itself, somewhere in the wiring or the drain, or out at the compressor. The part you can see isn't always the part that's broken.
On a multi-zone system with two, three, or more heads, one can go down while the rest keep running fine. We test each zone so we don't end up replacing the wrong thing.
Line sets run through finished walls, attics, crawlspaces, or exterior sleeves, wherever the house allows it. A water stain, damaged insulation, or a loose wall penetration can change what the repair actually involves.
We won't pour chemicals down the drain or take the head apart to chase a smell. A filter check is easy. Anything touching the sealed refrigerant system needs real testing first, and a healthy system should still show a 15 to 20 degree split between the air going in and the air coming out.
We track down what's wrong, whether it's at the head, somewhere in the wiring or drain, or out at the compressor, and tell you what we tested and whether the fix brings that zone back.
You get a written scope and price before any repair starts. If the equipment's condition makes replacement worth talking about, we explain that separately.
Usually it's a blocked drain, a drain-pan issue, something off with the install, or a frozen coil sending water back into the head. Shut it off and protect the floor until we take a look.
It usually points to a stored fault or a specific operating state. Write down the blink pattern and your model number before you call. It saves us time.
Yes, that happens all the time. We test each head and the outdoor unit so the repair matches the zone that's actually giving you trouble.
Depends on what's actually broken, the shape the rest of the equipment's in, how hard it is to reach, and whether fixing it brings the zone back to normal. We figure that out before you decide anything.
Tell us which head is acting up and what its lights or display show.