The furnace never begins
You hear nothing. No ignition attempt, no click - just a thermostat set to heat and no answer from the basement.
When a furnace won't start, shuts down after a few minutes, or sends cool air through the vents, the whole house feels different. You might hear the system try to run without getting heat, or watch the rooms stay cold while the thermostat says it's heating. Jefferson's older village houses and the newer builds off US-340 warm differently, but the question is the same: where does the cycle break?
Start with what changed. That one detail gives a furnace repair call somewhere real to begin.
The useful question isn't which part is bad. It's where the heating sequence breaks down.
You hear nothing. No ignition attempt, no click - just a thermostat set to heat and no answer from the basement.
The furnace lights, runs 2 or 3 minutes, and shuts down before the house warms up. Time it if you can.
Air keeps moving even though the heat cycle isn't doing its job. The timing tells us more than the symptom alone.
A new ignition click, a blower whine, a cycling pattern that wasn't there last week: describe it instead of ignoring it.
You can make the service call more useful just by recording what you see and hear. Set the thermostat 5 degrees above room temperature and watch what happens for a minute or two. Keep the focus on the sequence. Your job is to describe the failure, not to test a gas control, ignition component, or safety device.
If the furnace shows a code, write it down instead of clearing it over and over. "It runs for about a minute, then stops" helps more than "the furnace is broken."
The first symptom you notice isn't always the failed condition. The sequence gives us a clearer place to start.
First we confirm the furnace is actually being asked to heat, and that it has the power to begin lighting.
A furnace that never lights and one that lights, then quits, point down two different paths.
A gas control, the blower, restricted airflow, or a safety switch can each interrupt the cycle.
You should know what failed, whether it's safe to run, and why the repair fits the equipment you actually have.
An older furnace can often still be repaired. It depends on what failed, whether the equipment runs safely, how big the repair is, and the furnace's history.
Ask for the failed condition explained in plain language. If replacement comes up, it should follow that explanation, not replace it.
Repair often makes sense when the failed part is clear, the furnace runs safely, and the rest of the system's still in workable shape.
A big repair, repeated breakdowns, safety concerns, or an older furnace: any of those means it's time for a real repair-versus-replacement conversation before you decide.
It could be the power, the ignition, a gas control, or a safety switch. The startup pattern and any error code narrow it down fast.
Flame sensing, airflow, venting, a control, or a safety switch can all interrupt the cycle. Time how long it runs, and watch whether the blower keeps going after the heat stops.
Leave the home. Call the gas utility from outside. Don't touch switches, flames, or furnace controls on your way out.
Depends on what failed, whether it's safe to run, how big the repair is, and the equipment's history. We'll walk you through those before replacement ever comes up.
Tell us what you set the thermostat to and what the furnace does next. That's enough for us to start.